

I am going to Uganda.
Laundry day. Jeff and I are outside washing our clothes and Aisha comes out and takes over, seeing how pathetic we are. ( I thought I was doing pretty well.) This Aisha is not the girl that stays in the dorms, but a woman that Festus hired to help around the White House. Sometimes he refers to her as the “brown lady” because she is lighter skinned.
Well she is Muslim, and today is not her Sabbath so she sets to work. Her hands are so fast and efficient in washing the clothes. We’re almost mesmerized. We listen to the radio as people have a discussion about Chogum and the country’s emergency preparedness plan. A man suggests that the country have a Youth League that responds to disasters, and that the country have a few helicopters they can fly around.
I was going to go to Mukono today, and I still might. Josephine’s daughter keeps calling me. I don’t know if it was lost in translation or what but she thinks I’m suppose to meet her today and it’s like I’m late or something. I don’t think I’ve ever met her before or even spoken to her. So weird.
Today Kelley and I are going to the schools that have kids that are sponsored by Volset. So many kids recently have had their sponsors in the US or the UK just randomly drop them, or be really lazy about when they get their money in. We think that if they understood that their money is actually going towards a child’s education, and that when they stop paying without letting us know, it means that the child cannot attend school until we find them a new sponsor.
So, we are going to these schools and I am taking photos of the children and Kelley is helping them write thank you letters to let the sponsors know that they really are making such a difference.
It goes quicker and easier than we expected, and hopefully we’ll have this whole project finished in two months. We walked to a school that was about three or four miles down this road. The same road that leads to the orphanage I visited in my first week. The sun is hot. Today it is easy to remember that we are right on the equator. We walk for miles, sit down for ten minutes, and then walk for miles again.
Erin’s Buganda name is Namata and the small children around the village sometimes substitute this name for Muzungo. We are miles from Ntenjeru and some little girl says, “Bye Namata!”
What is even stranger is when we are a mile from town and some kid says, “Bye Adam!” People are constantly saying my name and I have no idea who they are. But I like it so much better than being called muzungo.
We meet Jeff and Ronnie in town and go to the restaurant that is becoming our little hangout. We say goodbye to Ronnie after lunch and go home, visiting John on the way. We sit on teh front porch and relax. I peel the rest of my sugarcane (which apparently doesn't become sweeter as you let it sit, but dries out..)
Late night text from Fiona: You must be a thief coz you have stolen my heart. You must be tired coz you’re running through my mind. And maybe I’m a bad shooter coz am missing you. Gdnyt!
Ha.
I don’t have school until 2pm so I sleep in and clean my room. Festus thanks me for keeping it so tidy.
I walk down the road towards Ntenjeru and some small boy in school uniform yells up the road, “Adam! Ori Otya!” I can’t make out who it is and I’m so surprised as I get closer to see that it is Alafua! For the first time I see him in clothes that don’t have holes and tears in them. “Were you at school?” He deliberately nods his head once and says, “yes!”
He is so young, maybe five, and he’s walking alone down this road that huge trucks speed down every five minutes. I ask if he’s going home and he says yes. He then grabs my hand and starts walking with me towards Ntenjeru. He is smiling so big and marching up a storm, so proud in his clothes.
I take the shortcut to the school and worry that maybe Alafua won’t be able to find his way back home one I get to school. I ask him, “Are you going home, or going back to school?”
“Yes.”
“Um.. OK you have to go home now. I need to teach school.”
“Yes. Tugede.” (which means let’s go.)
I try to un-hold his hand, but he squeezes even tighter. I take him to some woman who are washing outside their house and ask them to translate for me. (Kids in Uganda do not learn English until they are almost out of primary school.)
As the woman talk to him he holds my hand tighter and wipes the tears that are dropping from his straight face. I feel terrible. I get out my books and show him that I’m a teacher. I don’t think he understands. And who knows, maybe the women are telling him to leave the muzungo alone.
Finally he understands that he can’t walk with me anymore. He turns and starts walking up the path. I look back and see him reach into the back of his shorts and pull out a huge white handkerchief, that he uses to wipe his face. He looks back at me, kicks the dirt and walks on.
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I meet a girl and her two brothers, one she is holding, on a path in the banana trees on the way to school. I wish I could stay longer to take pictures, but settle for the few I had time for.
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After class ask me to sing and dance or take their picture and say forget about it, because no one has done their homework. I think they will do it next week.
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Josephine, the manager from Mukono, calls me and has me speak to her daughter who asks me when I’m coming back. I tell her I’m not sure, but that Joe and I plan on going maybe on Saturday.
I go to Ntenjeru and meet Erin and Kelley. They are doing a seminar on HIV at the trading center. I have three passion fruit juices. Places prepare this juice and pour them into sandwich sized plastic bags and tie them. They’re kept in a fridge and you drink them with a straw. They’re suppose to boil the water they use and I’m scared to ask if they do, because it is delicious.
We wait for a good while before people decide to sit down for our seminar. As it progresses more and more people show up until we have a good crowd. Kelley and Erin, with the help of Lydia – who translates into Luganda, ask the group what they know about HIV, how you can get HIV, how you can prevent HIV, why is HIV still a problem when we know how to prevent it, and open the discussion to their questions.
It was pretty good. There are some very smart people, and some stupid young men who have such misconceptions about how HIV is spread. They take too much risk in assuming that they might not get the virus.
I walk home with Kelley, who stops at this man, John’s house to drop off food. Jeff and Kellie have provided the man with surgery that he needed so badly. He is suppose to rest for a month, which he is having a hard time doing with the boredom, so they are helping his family with food.
Before class I get to school and go to the teachers lounge. Which is really just a small concrete room with a table and stools and a huge 2005 calendar showing some soccer team. They ask me if I’m having some tea and I tell them no thank you. Then one of them says this is the third time that I’ve refused to “take tea” (which is how they say it here.) and asked if I was worried they were going to poison me.
Then Richard says, “No, it’s because of his religion” Richard says he used to go to my church in Mukono but that he can’t afford to take a taxi there every Sunday. The Chemistry teacher, Joseph says he would like to go to my church and asks me what it’s about.
I tell him that one thing about our church is we believe God is the same yesterday, today, and
forever, and if he spoke to prophets in the past, he will continue to speak through prophets today. That God is not finished speaking to us, that his work did not end with the Bible, but continues on even today.
The teacher who is a Jehovah’s Witness, and a good man, asks me what I say about the passage in the Bible that says there will be no one after Jesus. I ask him to please show me this passage, because I don’t believe it says that anywhere in scripture.
He quickly flips through the pages, searching for these words, as the others continue to ask some questions about the church. I explain how the Bible is a record of God’s dealings with His people in Jerusalem, and how God loves the entire world and speaks to people in other places as well. And they are asked to write their revelations just as the prophets were in Jerusalem. I told them the Book of Mormon is a record of God’s dealings with His people anciently on the American continent.
Then this man shows me the passage he has found. It is in Hebrews and says something like, “Thus Jesus, having come at the end of days, has …..” And he points at the “end of days” and says, “see!” I ask him who wrote that passage. He says Paul. I ask him, if everything ended with Jesus, why do you consider Paul’s words to be scripture?
The whole room hooted and laughed and the man just smiled. “Do you consider Paul a prophet?” I say that he was a leader of the church, an apostle, and that apostles are also prophets.
“What about,” he starts, using the familiar argument, “in Revelations where it says if you add to these words you add a curse, if you take away any words it is no good?”
I ask him if he knows that the book of Revelation was written chronologically before some of the books in the Bible. I tell him, and the few listening in the room, that Matthew didn’t get a huge blank book and start writing on it, and then having finished, pass it to Mark, then to Luke and to John and then finally, some time down the road, John the Revelator gets this book and decides he is going to finish it. The End.
The books of the Bible were all separate, and it is man that compiled the scriptures and put them in the order they thought appropriate. All the writings of Paul are placed in the Bible from the longest book to the shortest. When did it ever say that God was finished with revelation?
He can’t think of anything to say but that we have a lot to talk about.
Today I teach math to the S2s before the S1s. I end the S1 class and start packing my bags. “Master! Mr. Adam! Sing for us!”
“What? Why??”
“Sing for us some American music. What about your National Anthem?”
I tell them that if I sing my National Anthem they have to sing theirs. They agree. I sing the Star Spangled Banner and they applause. They ask me what it means. I explain how it was written during the Revolutionary War when we were fighting for our freedom and independence. (Even though it was the war of 1812.. ha. I knew it didn't sound right, but my dad commented and let me know.) I tell them the flag was raised during the day amidst all the cannons and gunshots and the author of the song saw the flag as the sun set.
I told them the fighting continued throughout the night and in the morning, with the first rays of the sun, the author looked out and saw that the flag was still standing, and it inspired him to write this song, which represents to us that no matter what happens, through all difficulties, our nation, and the desire to be free, will endure.
I felt so proud to be American. Haha.
Then all at once they stood and began to sing their anthem. It was simple and pretty and talked about Uganda being a land of freedom and that if they stood together it could not fall. I really enjoyed their singing.
After Lunch all the students have an official debate. The two opposing sides sit across from each other and there is a House Speaker with secretaries at his side. The four proposing and four opposing speakers have their name written on the board with the prefix: Honorable. The proposing argument is: Boys should be given the first priority to education.
I guess the issue is that sometimes a mother does not have enough money to send all her children to school. So should she send the boy before the girl, or the girl before the boy. In my opinion gender shouldn’t determine which child goes to school.
Those proposing say that in the Bible, God made Adam first and then Eve. So it should be with education. (I want to tell the girls that the Bible also says the First shall be Last and the Last shall be First, but I keep quiet.) The opposing said that God made Eve to help Adam and how can she help Adam without an education? The proposing said all major discoveries have been from men and that it is this theory (giving a man’s name) or that theory and not the Shania Twain Theory. Haha. The girls said: educate a woman - educate a nation.
I don’t think there was one clear winner on the subject.
After school I walk with the Chemistry teacher, Joseph to town. I say I’m going to get a haircut and he comes with me. Jeff got a hair cut yesterday and it looks fine. They shaved his face too and it only cost 500Sh! So, I walk in, confident that everything will be great. I tell the barber to just trim the sides a bit, but do not shave it. OK OK
BUZZ! Right into the side of my head above my ear he shaves the hair off. “Like this?”
“No! ha but it’s too late now, isn’t it? Go ahead..”
So he shaves all around my head and leaves the top. I look like Vanilla Ice. Haha I’m not upset as I would be in America because everyone will just assume this is what muzungos do to their hair. But I will wear a hat to school tomorrow. (As if I haven’t been doing that everyday anyway.)
Then Joseph says we should go to Kisonga (said like Chasoga.) It’s the biggest village between here and Mukono. I asked how much it would cost and he says, “No, no you are my guest!” Why do these Africans want to buy me everything? It’s the opposite of what you would expect.
We get to Kisonga and go to a bar and he orders us soda after soda and we sit and watch Ugandan music videos. Which are very funny. Joseph, or maybe I should call him Joe, to differentiate between him and Joseph from Mukono.. Joe told the girl to put in some English videos. He is from the border of Uganda and Kenya, so he doesn’t speak Luganda very well, mostly Swahili.
The girl puts in a new DVD and it’s the Back Street Boys. Haha I love it and think that this DVD will be filled with funny videos from my middle school days. But I was wrong, the DVD was every music video the Back Street Boys had ever made. And the Africans sat and sang along. Haha.
There was a woman who managed the shop named Josephine, who after I took some pictures of her and the shop, asked for my number and made me write down hers. She said if I was ever lonely she had some daughters I could spend time with. Haha.
We go next door to play some pool. The balls are a bit smaller than the ones in America and they are only colors with no numbers, except the 8-ball, which looked like a miniature of ours. The owner of the place came up to us and played a game of pool. Of course he was brilliant, owning the pool table and everything. He shows us what is what and then gives us three free games.
Joe keeps asking me what I want to eat and I tell him I am OK. Finally he says that it hurts him that I won’t eat. He wants me to have a good time and to buy my dinner. So we order some Matooke and Fish before we head on home.
We catch a taxi to Ntenjeru. There is no one else in the matatu and we sit in front. I make sure to put my seatbelt on. We get to Ntenjeru and the taxi is going no further, so Joe gets us a motorcycle to Nsumba. He lives between here and Nsumba and he pays for the driver to drop me off after him.
The guy drives behind Joe’s building right to his room. He wants to show me his place. “This is my girl,” he says pointing to a woman cooking something on the steps. I had no idea he was married, or living with this woman. We get inside and there is a baby sleeping on the couch. “Who is this?” I say. “This is my girl.” Haha. I say goodbye and head on home.
I teach English today. My S1 class has grown to 66 students. As I end my S2 class they call out, “Master!” (which is what they call teachers here. ..awkward I know.) It is also Uganda tradition for woman to kneel when addressing their elders. I’m not sure I’ve seen any of the male students do it, but whenever a girl is handing something to a teacher, or comes to the office with a question, she kneels. When I gave tootsie-rolls to the daughters of the woman whose house we were staying at during the Island trip, they knelt as I handed it to them to say thank you.
Anyway, so the students call out for me and ask me to dance. What? I am so confused. “Why in the world would I dance for you??”
“Please, master, dance!” haha So I say I will dance if they will dance. Some of them try, but they are too shy. I start dancing the Calypso, a Ugandan dance I saw at the Introduction and they immediately cheer and shout. I moonwalk out of the classroom to their utter delight.
After class I stayed for lunch. The teachers were outside on a bench under a tree by the office. Richard and the woman I don’t think likes me ask me what I do with Volset. I tell them about Jeff’s mosquito net project and how we go to villages and give them to woman who are pregnant or have small children, or those who are HIV positive. He asks why we don’t care about “the singles.” I tell them that we don’t have endless supplies of nets, and those people have the biggest risk of dying from Malaria, and that if pregnant women have Malaria it can cause birth defects in the baby.
Then Richard asks me what a muzungo looks like when he has AIDS and that maybe muzungos can’t get AIDS. I tell him how utterly wrong he is. I tell him I’m not sure what a person with AIDS looks like, that if I’ve seen one, I wasn’t aware of it. He couldn’t believe it and him and the woman talk in Luganda about it.
I explain to them that while HIV is still a problem in the US, it’s not nearly the epidemic it is in Africa because we are, from such an early age, educated about the virus: what causes it and how to prevent it.
I think the woman is coming around to me. I tell her I went to a burial the day before and she says to Richard that I am very inquisitive. I think this is meant as a compliment, then she tells me I could have got my head chopped off. What? Why is everyone worried about me getting my head chopped off?
I tell them the ladies said the same thing and warned me about foxes. Now they start on how I couldn’t possibly kick a fox and maybe the foxes in America are domesticated. I tell them they absolutely are not and that foxes are small. Then I say fine, if a crazy fox is after me, I will climb a tree. Then they ask what I would do I were in the tea plantation. I say I would hop on top of a tea plant and they laugh and laugh.
I start teaching today. I’m wearing the same thing I wore yesterday to church so that I look as smart as I can for the kids. I’m teaching math to Senior 1 and Senior 2. They are around the age of middle schoolers – my favorite age group.
They giggle. There are about 45 kids in my S1 class and only 30 something in my S2. I felt the same way I did on my first day of subbing at the high school. Nervous at first, but after a few minutes I was fine.
During class Fiona (the girl from Mukono who likes to have white friends) text messaged me this: Iam nt aclock dat I can sms u 24hrs ade bt ma hrt wil b lyk aclock dat wil nt stop carin,lovin & prayin 4aspecial person lyk u. hope life is kul. I MCU.adam sms me
What?
There is a woman who teaches Luganda at the school. I meet her and get the feeling that she is not impressed with me at all. I don’t know if she spoke any English at all while I was there. I did hear her comment on the way I said one of my Luganda words though, while everyone else was just impressed that I knew how to answer the question that was asked.
I finish school at about 4pm and start to walk home. I pass by quite a few people going in the opposite direction. One of them is a man, Ezekiel who is the pastor at the 7th Day church in Ntenjeru. He is starting an organization like Festus did and wants my opinion on things and wants me to visit his organization in West Uganda. I told him I would love to see other parts of the country, but I couldn’t this weekend.
I walk on and pass more and more people walking in the other direction. I pass three women and I say, “Jambo” and then they tell me they are going to a burial and that I should come to. A woman just up the road died yesterday and they are going to pay their respects.
I hike with them on the same path that Jeff, Kelley, and I took yesterday, and then further still, hiking forever. I tell Florence that I had been this way only yesterday and she tells me that she has lived here six years and has never been up this way.
We get to the burial, which is on the top of a big hill. People are gathered in an area of banana trees and vanilla vines. They have put in a shallow hole, maybe four feet, and sealed it with brick and mortar. There are two preachers. Women are laying in the shade of the trees. There is a group of people surrounding the grave.
The second preacher begins to sing in Luganda, “Nearer My God to Thee.” They lower the casket into the grave with ropes and her family cries out. She has left behind four children and they cry the loudest. The people nearest to the grave start singing along, and slowly the music spreads to the rest of the congregation. I hum along, not knowing the Luganda words.
Men, like the ones that are building the school, start mixing cement and rocks with shovels and hoes. It is strange because they smile and laugh occasionally. So do others in the crowd, as another preacher starts his remarks. It was similar at the baptism. But all during the service her family sits under the banana trees a little way off and cry.
We leave as they seal the woman inside her grave. As we walk back I see the shortcut that we took yesterday to get home. I wave goodbye to the ladies and an old woman who joined us while walking says, “uh uh!” (Which means no, Ugandans use a lot of humming and uh uhs to communicate.) They said that I would get my head chopped off. I try to explain I took the same route yesterday and it was fine, but liking to make old woman happy, I follow them the long way home.
They tell me that a fox could attack me. I tell them that I will kick a fox. We get to Florence’s house, and she tells me that someday I need to come and take photos of her and her children. A man with a bicycle starts walking with me and tries to teach me some Luganda. He is impressed with how much I know already. (Which really isn’t much. I only know basic greetings.)